Dr Faiza shams

Some actives aren’t just about timing — they’re about safety.
☀️ Vitamin C, Niacinamide — morning, for antioxidant protection through the day
🌙 Glycolic Acid — evening only, since it increases sun sensitivity and raises risk of UV damage if used in the day without strict SPF
🌙 Peptides — evening, when skin is in repair mode
🕐 Hyaluronic Acid — safe anytime, no photosensitivity concern
Using exfoliating acids at night isn’t a rule for no reason — it’s protecting your skin from damage you won’t see until later.

To all the people in research who had a bad day today — tomorrow will be the same, and that’s okay. 🥼

Science isn’t linear. Some days it’s just… this. And that’s part of the process, not a failure of it.

If you’re in a lab, a lecture hall, or just trying to figure something out today — keep going.

Be like Hyaluronic Acid: draw in what nourishes you, and hold onto it. 💧

Niacinamide is one of the most studied actives in skincare — and its effects on skin cells go beyond a single function.

Research has identified multiple documented mechanisms: supporting ceramide synthesis for a stronger skin barrier, reducing melanosome transfer, modulating inflammatory markers, and supporting collagen synthesis in fibroblasts.
Sebum reduction has also been clinically observed, though the exact underlying pathway is still under research.

Molecular & Cellular skin science, explained simply!

Hakozaki, T., Minwalla, L., Zhuang, J., Chhoa, M., Matsubara, A., Miyamoto, K., Greatens, A., Hillebrand, G. G., Bissett, D. L., & Boissy, R. E. (2002). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20–31. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x

Marques, C., Hadjab, F., Porcello, A., Lourenço, K., Scaletta, C., Abdel-Sayed, P., Hirt-Burri, N., Applegate, L. A., & Laurent, A. (2024). Mechanistic insights into the multiple functions of niacinamide: Therapeutic implications and cosmeceutical applications in functional skincare products. Antioxidants, 13(4), 425. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox13040425

Oblong, J. E., Bissett, D. L., Ritter, J. L., Kurtz, K. K., & Schnicker, M. S. (2001, March 2–7). Niacinamide stimulates collagen synthesis from human dermal fibroblasts and differentiation marker in normal human epidermal keratinocytes: Potential of niacinamide to normalize aged skin cells to correct homeostatic balance [Poster presentation]. 59th Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology, Washington, DC, United States.

Tanno, O., Ota, Y., Kitamura, N., Katsube, T., & Inoue, S. (2000). Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology, 143(3), 524–531. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.2000.03705.x

Formulation science isn’t linear. Every failed batch is data. 🔬

What’s something in your field that looks like failure but is actually just… process?

Your skin concern. One ingredient. The science explains it.
→ Dark spots — Vitamin C
→ Oily skin & large pores — Niacinamide
→ Acne & breakouts — Salicylic Acid
→ UV damage & aging — Sunscreen
→ Dull & uneven texture — Glycolic Acid
→ Fine lines & collagen loss — Peptides
→ Dehydration & dryness — Hyaluronic Acid

No complicated routines. Just the right ingredient for the right concern. 🔬

Skin Molecular Biology Basics │ Dr. Faiza Shams

Niacinamide doesn’t need to strip your skin to work. It repairs the barrier, calms inflammation, and balances oil — quietly, consistently, without irritation.

Effective doesn’t have to mean harsh. In skincare or anywhere else.