Joan Morais Cosmetics School

Comment BTMS below and we’ll send you the link to our FREE BTMS-25 vs. BTMS-50 for Hair Care Guide.

BTMS-25 and BTMS-50 may look similar, but they can create very different results in a conditioner.

In this comparison, I’m using the same base formula for fine hair with very low percentages of each BTMS so you can clearly see the difference in viscosity, structure, conditioning strength, and overall formula feel.

The key is understanding that BTMS-25 contains more fatty alcohol and contributes more body and creaminess, while BTMS-50 contains a higher level of conditioning active and gives the formulator more control over the final structure of the conditioner.

Choosing between them should always depend on the hair type, desired conditioning level, viscosity, and finished hair feel.

Save this Reel for your next conditioner formulation.


Comment “BODY OIL” below and we’ll send you the link to our FREE download: How To Formulate Body Oil.

Body oil is one of the simplest formulations to make, but creating one that feels beautiful on the skin takes intention.
The combination of oils makes a huge difference. Lightweight oils improve spreadability, medium-weight oils add softness and conditioning, richer oils create cushion and lasting glow, and premium botanical oils can elevate the sensory feel and botanical profile.
Essential oils can also add a beautiful aromatic experience when formulated well and at appropriate dermal levels.
A well-formulated body oil should leave the skin feeling soft, smooth, conditioned, and radiant, without greasiness.

Color in cosmetic formulation is more than just making a product look beautiful.

In the United States, cosmetic color additives are regulated by the FDA, and not every color that comes naturally from a plant is permitted for use as a cosmetic colorant.

I love working with plant-derived ingredients that can contribute beautiful natural color while also offering beneficial properties for the skin and hair. In this calming and soothing moisturizer, I’m experimenting with a plant-derived ingredient that creates this beautiful color and complements the purpose of the formulation.

Plant colors can fade or shift over time, so understanding pH, ingredient interactions, stability, and the proper way to incorporate the colorant is an important part of formulation.

After more than 20 years of working with plants in cosmetic formulation, I continue to experiment, test, and learn, and I share this experience with my students in the Professional Natural Skin Care and Hair Care Formulation Online Courses.

I’m adjusting the Fortifying Hair Serum from my Professional Hair Care Formulation Course which I love for a hydrating serum for the hair and scalp, but I want to adjust it into a Silicone-Free Blow-Dry Anti-Frizz Serum.

Formulating is more than combining ingredients, t’s understanding how each ingredient needs to be handled to perform at its best.

From properly hydrating gums and incorporating powders, to understanding how a liquid emulsifier performs and carefully adjusting the final pH, technique can make a significant difference in the finished formulation.

For this serum, I’m targeting a final pH of 4.8–5.2 and formulating for a lightweight feel, good slip, smoother blow-drying, and reduced frizz with no hair shrinkage.

This test formula is finished, now comes one of my favorite parts of product development: testing it on the hair and evaluating the results.

Mentor with me and learn professional hair care formulation in the upcoming Fall Semester, it starts September 21! 


We love supporting brands where you can truly see the heart, purpose, and people behind the products.

OCOA OCOA - High End Curly Hair Care was created by two sisters from the Dominican Republic who wanted to celebrate their natural curls, their culture, and the beauty of curls, waves, and coils.

Cory Cory Varona and Nicol Nicol Varona Cancelmo Dominican-American sisters, are the founders of OCOA and the FIRST Dominican founded curly haircare line that launched nationwide in Ulta Beauty. They are moms, formulators, and business owners who have worked incredibly hard to grow their brand.

They have a great Travel Kit with four products to cleanse, hydrate, condition, define and care for curls, and It makes a wonderful travel companion, a thoughtful gift for a friend, or a little gift for yourself.

We’re so happy to see these two sisters and moms take their business to the level of success they so deserve. You can find OCOA products at Ulta Beauty or order directly from them online.

Follow them on social media OCOA - High End Curly Hair Care and try their products.

Fresh rose petals can quickly turn brown if they are dried too hot or too slowly. This is one of the methods we’ve found works best for us.

For cosmetic formulation, dry them gently at 35–40°C / 95–104°F with good airflow, spread in a single layer, and continue drying until the petals are completely crisp. It works well in a dehydrator or incubator.

Once cooled, store them in an airtight container away from heat, moisture, and light.

Properly dried rose petals can then be used to create beautiful botanical extracts for skin and hair care formulations.