Lisa B. Hair

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Understanding the chemical we use is essential in giving us confidence and helping us achieve success.

Here are some things you may want to know about Bleach…

5 Things you should know about Bleach

1.The scientific descriptor for Bleach is : A decomposing compound. The most aggressive compound (next to hair straightener) that can be used on the hair.

2.The actual lightening is done by the persulfate salts ( Ammonium , Potassium , and Sodium).

3.Peroxide or Developer is used to expedite the lightening action.
The stronger your developer the quicker oxygen is released and more swelling is created in your mix.

4.When the mixture dries out the chemical action is over

5.For best results and to preserve the integrity of the fiber you should acidify the hair after a process using bleach , in order to stop the action and close the cuticle layers.

Did this help you ?

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Hello my friends… Our June classes are up on our website.Your invited to play in our sandbox. It may change the way you think about hair color forever 🙏

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What if I told you that there is a “huge” number of our fellow professionals , who do not understand how to formulate?

Would you believe me ?

Maybe or maybe not …. It all depends on how difficult it is for us to admit that we have more work to do . More to learn ! More honing of our craft !

My mentor always told me , “admitting that you have more to learn”, is the first step in growth.

That is why our MANTRA is “Learn What You Don’t Know” , because learning is the key to mastering our craft.

Even those who consider themselves “influencers”,”educators” etc. , may not have all the pieces correct.

Here’s an example of a post today on IG

In the post , the expert recommends performing several glosses back to back on porous hair (picture #2), in order to achieve your goal. The post states that if you mix several tones together in one bowl , you could end up neutralizing the tones.

Even though the last part of the statement is correct , the idea that adding them separately will avoid that happening is a testament to the fact that we do not understand the chemistry here.

Here a couple of things that might help you :

If you have porosity , Fix it first ! Porosity is rips , tears , and holes in your cuticle layers. Apply a treatment that will fill those voids first.

2. Basic “hair color correction” theory tells us , “if there is more than 2 levels difference in your starting level and your target level , pre-pigmentize first (fill the hair).

3. Basic chemistry tells us that apply several colors back to back will drive your result toward an A-chromatic result , center of the wheel, or loss of tone.

These 3 steps will help avoid such a complicated approach to your toning results and keep you from having to figure out how to charge for all these services.

Sometimes this stuff makes me crazy !

Hope this helps you.

Big shout out to Mandi owner of salon 131 in Seminole, has updated her windows and included Enjoy. They Are loving Enjoy and Enjoy Holistics.

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It’s an amazing feeling when your haircare is on point! Meet the Dream Team 🧚🏼 for someone who likes volume at the scalp and moisture at the ends & on occasion has dry scalp or is in the sun or outdoors a bit to long. So you’ll need small size of a volume shampoo and hydrate shampoo to switch up when needed and a larger bottle of hydrate conditioner followed by a detangling spray. Use as instructed by your stylist and enjoy your hydrated hair with volume at the scalp. 🌱👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 Everyone has their likes…. so mix and match as needed😉 ⁠
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.dye had a newly acquired sensitivity to lightener, so I opted to try out ’s highlift and permanent options for lift instead of bleach…which are also ammonia free.

So, NO bleach was used on this beautiful head of hers and nothing over a 20 volume for this look.

Here are all of my formulas used-

⬆️To lift-
10/0 with 20 vol and
HC/0 with 20 vol

⬇️Lowlights-
8/3 and
1.5 oz 8/32 .2 oz 6/0
Both with demi developer

Toner/Glaze Formula -
Rapid Toners Vanilla and Champagne 1.1 also with the demi developer for 10 minutes.

The rapid toners deposit level 10-8 depending on timing.
5 minutes for a level 10, 10 minutes level 9, etc.

Stoked to be sharing this technique actually ON Autumn (she’s my model…and will have the same amount of regrowth if not more by August 😬) at the event I just posted about. See you guys there!!!

We honor and remember those who sacrificed their lives for our country.

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Raise your hand if , you were taught that hair “color fading”was color molecules washing out of your hair.

What if I told you that story is not exactly accurate ?

Today , in part one of this post, I want you to open your mind and allow me to share what’s really happening.

When we color hair we are literally changing the structure of the hair by adding “dye intermediates” that are delivered to the cortex , bind together , and bond with the hair’s structure.

Well , that’s what we are doing. Building a structure (color molecule) within another structure(hair).

When these “dye intermediates” bond together , its a connection made by something called a “coupler”.

Think about the word “couple” which means “to combine”. Without these “couplers” creating a connection between “dye intermediates”, we would not have a color molecule that we could see.

Over time , after a color has been developed, this structure is exposed to wear & tear.

Every time the hair shaft swells, shrinks, is exposed to the sun , etc.this structure vibrates , shakes ,or moves .

Kinda like a micro earthquake.

After enough exposure to various types of abuse from a normal lifestyle, the “couplers” begin to disengage or disconnect.

Once a coupler disconnects, the color you see begins to change.

That’s right , hair color fading is really , couplers disengaging !

Nothing washed out of the hair.

The partial structure is still there.

This is why , when we perform a “retouch” & “refresh” service,for best results I recommend the following.

On the mids & ends (zone 2 & zone 3), do not try to match the color on the scalp (zone 1).

You only need to replace what is missing.

Most of the time , we only loose reflect.

But if our guest has bad behaviors when caring for their color treated hair, we may have to replace some of the tone that was lost.

By adopting this behavior , you can prevent “browning out” your color”.

Drop a thumbs up or a comment if this post helped you make some discoveries.

In part two we will discuss all the variables than can encourage “pre-mature” fading.

Have an amazing day ! #gurunation

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Have you ever been confused when reading and trying to understand the ingredients in a ingredient deck?
 
Ploy this, Para that, Amino what?
 
Words, difficult to pronounce and most often looking like gibberish! 

What’s good?  
 
What’s bad?
 
How do I know? 

That is why we created our new Small Bites program, “What’s In It” 2022.
 
This is a program that will help the learner understand some of these ingredients and their purpose in a formula.
 
This program will NOT make you a cosmetic chemist, however , it will empower you with some knowledge that will help you make better informed decisions and not be fooled by marketing hype.
 
This is a Level 1 program (Introductory)
 
This is a “Limited Seating” program to enhance the learners experience.
 
Course length:    1 & ½ hours.
 
Course subjects:
 
What is an ingredient deck? 

How to read an ingredient deck? 

What’s good?    What’s bad? 

Basic ingredients in all formulas 

How do I know the purpose of a specific ingredient? 

Truth vs. Tales

Come play in our “sandbox”!

It may change the way you look at hair color forever !

Happy Sunday from south Florida

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Before and after from my last class in Ohio ! Had a ton of fun! I’m headed to Montana June 4th! To teach salon can’t wait!!!
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I have been really loving using my permanent color line combined with my Demi permanent line gloss… honestly I never used to melt using 2 different color lines. My team suggested I try it and I’m honestly so happy I did.
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F18 permanent can be used in so many ways but what I really like using it for is the ability to push the hair line ( cool based company) or deposit 1:1 with 10 volume if i over blonded, then transfer from 1:1 to 1:1.5 or 1:2 with 10 vol and transition into my oligo Demi!
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Have you ever tried something like this?
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Or do you want to try the f18 color line? Lmk!
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