SIREN FX

Absolutely over the moon, as of the 14th of June that’s me completed my HND year 2 and fully qualified in Make-up Artistry for TV, Film and Theatre! 🎉🎓

I have finished the year with a massive A and only went and won an award for being the top of my class with the highest finishing mark! 🥺

I would like to congratulate everyone in my class for such a great year and anyone else that has finished up this year! I wish you all the best and so much luck for the future. ❤️

(I have also completed units in fashion make-up, bridal, Hair maintenance and a variety of beauty treatments such as tinting, brow lamination, party lashes and many more from over the years.)

I look forward to what the future brings and now just to wait for my graduation ceremony in November! 👩🏼‍🎓

If you don’t already, give my Instagram a Follow! ❤️
I’ve started posting a lot more over there.

Thank you to all my friends, family and followers for the continuous support, I appreciate it so much! ✨

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🌿Some close ups of Posy The Woodland Fairy for my Graded unit. 🌿
Here is some of the main products used to create this look listed below:

Nymph Forest prosthetic set 🧚🏻‍♀️
bases in Hint of Mint & Sexy Chilli 🌶
Antidote Palette 🌿
lashes in B802 Black Maxi-crossed 🕷
Variety of the Paradise Face & body paints 🎨
Lip liner in the shade Talk to the hand ✌🏻
Bond breaker
⭐️ Other Items such as clays, gold flakes etc were sourced from EBay & Amazon

(These amazing Prosthetic’s were made by JessFX and can be found over on her store, The prosthetic were applied and painted by myself.)

Model: Chloe Craig
Photographer/Videographer: Tracy Angel Straiton 📸🎥
Location: Po***ck Country Park 📍

🌿 Posy The Woodland Fairy 🌿

I had to complete a graded unit as I’m getting close to finishing my HND. Having to put together my own team, I was given the option of three briefs. This is to demonstrate my make-up abilities that I have developed over the past few years while attending City of Glasgow College, as well as my abilities to develop a brief, assemble a team, create a budget, run the project start to finish dealing with any mishaps along the way to demonstrate that I can perform as required of me in the theatre, TV, and film industries.

To satisfy the SQA requirements, I had to produce a film that was at least two minutes long and featured my own small story showcasing my character. I will post more of my Graded unit over the next few weeks. 🧚🏼‍♀️

(These amazing Prosthetic’s were made by and can be found over on her store, The prosthetic were applied and painted by myself. This look was inspired by creation using JessFX forest nymph set.)

Model: Chloe Craig
Photographer/Videographer: Tracy Angel Straiton 📸🎥
Location: Po***ck Country Park 📍

18th Century Period and Postiche unit. (TV&Film based)

Requirements: Part Postiche assessment so I’ve used a variety of clip in extensions which has been powdered and paired with a classic 18th century makeup style.

Location:Trades Hall, Glasgow📍
Model: ⚡️
Photographer: 📸

Sinister Assessment 👺

It gives me great pleasure to have completed this assessment because I've been working on it every week since September as I've learned how to life-cast.

This procedure has been thrilling, expensive, and emotional. I was a little disappointed yesterday because I don't think it's precisely the image I had in my head, but I'm happy with the outcome after seeing the professional photographs.

I appreciate Josh, my lovely model, for working with me on this project since September. ✨

Stage 4 of creating my Sinister Design 👺

✨ I now just need to cast all my pieces twice, enough for a practice and my assessment.

✨ Prior to this, I painted cap plastic over the four core and negative molds. I'll mix Platsil Gel 25 in A and B with deadener and my chosen tone pigment with flocking. I'll pour this into my 3D molds and tap it lightly around the edges to attempt to prevent air bubbles.

✨ I'll let this sit for about an hour. I'll gently open the container with a hammer and remove it by inserting wooden spatulas into the side. For improved application, I will lightly airbrush any small repairs to the cap plastic.

✨ I'll use the same procedures for my flat molds, manually applying four layers of cap plastic and letting them cure. Next, I'll apply the chosen tone pigment and flocking, remove the extra silicone at a 45-degree angle, and let it set.

✨ Once set, I'll seal this with two additional layers of cap plastic, gently remove it from the molds, and pin it to some foam board for safety.

I am now ready to conduct my assessment on the 22nd of February 🎭✨

Stage 3 of life-casting for my Sinister Assessment 👺

✨ I've now finished texturing my 3D sculptures. Using Clayette, a soft clay, I will start to place my keys and flashing over my resin cores.

✨ After that, I'll use hot glue to attach my resin cores to a glass cutting block and start building a leak-proof wall out of wooden spatulas. Once confident and content, mix an equal amount of Easy-Flow resin and pour it into the foundation I've made, making sure to keep it under the keys I made earlier.

✨ I then start building an even bigger and stronger wall to contain resin using my hot glue gun, WED clay, and a tonne of foam board. I need to ensure that this is properly sealed to avoid product loss and leakage. Additionally, it's crucial to calculate everything and tilt the planks slightly inward to avoid using more resin. I regrettably failed to do that when I created my first 3D mould, which increased the expense of my second 3D mould but served as a valuable lesson.

✨ I pour the resin together once the walls are in place and leave to set for 4 hours. (Always use PPE.)

✨ Upon setting, I will begin to remove some of the soft Clay and the Easy-Flow resin foundation I had previously made. As I don't want to break anything or harm any of the texture in my design, I need to be cautious at this point. Due to resin's sharpness, it's crucial to take your time. ( I lost count of how many times I cut myself🙃.) I'll start to peel away my resin cores using a chisel and hammer as well as a variety of hardwood spatulas, pushing these down into the soft clay to peel open the cores.

✨ I have to clean these out using IPA after they have been opened; it's essential not to use anything metal inside the cores because doing so could damage the texture. Instead, wooden tools are always the best choice.

✨ The remaining Vaseline is removed from these 4 components, and they are airbrushed with approximately 9–10 coats of cap plastic before being prepared for casting.

Ready for Round 4 🎭✨

✨ Next stage in Life-casting my Sinister sculpt👺

✨ I'd like to cut this into 5 pieces, giving me two 3D sculpts for the nose and chin and three flat moulds for the cheeks and forehead. To accomplish this, I will take a scalpel and being making deep cuts at a 45 degree angle where I would like the design to break apart for me to join up at a later date. I will soak my block in water for 24 hours to soften it in preparation for removal.

✨After carefully soaking the block, I carefully remove the nose and chin, storing them in a safe place because I don't need them right now. I'll start making snap moulds by moulding the shape of the model's nose and chin with Alginate and then strengthening it with plaster bandages as I will fill this will plaster.

✨ Once the plaster has dried, I will clean it up and stick it to a glass board, where I will add more plaster to the edges to make it smooth and without sharp edges. This is ready to be turned into block moulds. (Because this is my first time and I don't have any power tools, you can make these a lot neater.)

✨ I'll put both of my plaster positives in two different fairly large plastic boxes, trying to keep the pieces snugly together. (This is more for cost and product savings.) If the box is much larger than your pieces, you could build a wall out of WED clay to make it smaller, but this is entirely up to you. I'll then fill it with silicone to make my block moulds.

✨Once I have my block moulds, I will clean them and fill them with resin to make core moulds. (It is always important to read the manufacturer's instructions because each resin is different in order to avoid mistakes and for health and safety reasons.) I'll paint the first layer to avoid air bubbles before pouring the rest in until I reach the top and leaving it for 4 hours.

✨I'll then peel the resin from my silicone mould blocks and sand as much of the sharp edges as I can. (Again, due to a lack of power tools, these can be made much smaller and neater.) I'll then place my carefully stored 3D pieces, blend my sculpt into the core moulds, and begin finalising my design by adding any texture and repairing any breakages.

Ready for round 3 🎭✨

Life-casting to start the creation of my Sinister sculpt. 👺

✨ Here is my model having their face imprinted into Alginate which can be a very difficult situation when having this done for the first time. This is not for everyone if you feel claustrophobic as you will only be able to breathe out your nostrils and can feel a little heavy. My model sat really well for this!

✨ Once the alginate starts to set I press cotton wool over the whole of this and peel it off just so it adds some little fibres for my next stage which is applying plaster bandages. (The Alginate has created a negative mould.)

✨ To create a Mother mould I went in applying wet plaster bandages over the alginate and them previous fibres so the bandages have something to grip on when applied. This strengthens the alginate up as it’s very flimsy.

✨ Next step is to create a Positive Mould which is achieved by blocking out the nostrils with a clay such as WED and applying plaster into the Mother mould making sure to avoid creating any air bubbles.

I’m then left with my models face ready to create my desired sculpt to fit their face.✨