CosmEthically Active

Would you trust a product just because an influencer recommends it?

We wouldn't.

Not because influencers are always wrong.

Many create thoughtful, evidence-based content and genuinely help people make better skincare decisions.

But at the end of the day, every recommendation is still someone's opinion.

And we're all human.

Sometimes we trust someone because they've helped us before.
Sometimes because they seem authentic.
Sometimes simply because we like them.

That's why independent evaluation matters.

A cosmetic product shouldn't earn trust because of who talks about it—it should earn trust because its claims, formulation, and performance can be objectively assessed.

That's exactly what the CosmEthically ACTIVE certificate was created for.

Independent cosmetic scientists evaluate the formulation, including whether active ingredients are present in cosmetically effective concentrations, whether the product is physiologically compatible with the skin, and whether its claims are supported by the formulation itself.

Recommendations can inspire us.

Science helps us verify them.

Before buying your next skincare product, ask yourself one question:

Do you know what you're putting on your skin?

Beautiful packaging and marketing claims can only tell you so much. The real story is hidden in the ingredient list.

Understanding what ingredients do, where they come from, how they work, and when they're actually effective can completely change the way you choose skincare.

That's exactly why we wrote Modern Cosmetics: Ingredients of Natural Origin – A Scientific View.

📖 Inside you'll find:
• 500 ingredients of natural origin
• 290+ scientific monographs
• Evidence-based information backed by scientific literature
• A resource for formulators, students, professionals, brands, and skincare enthusiasts alike

Whether you're developing cosmetics or simply want to make more informed skincare decisions, knowledge is one of the most valuable ingredients.

🌊 Does swimming in the sea affect your skin microbiota?

Yes, it does.

I read with interest one of the first studies investigating this question. It showed that swimming in the ocean temporarily changes the composition of our skin microbiota (aka microbiome). Some of our resident bacteria decrease in abundance, while marine microorganisms are transferred to the skin.

😉 Was your first thought the same?
❓ Should this stop us from enjoying the sea?

❣ Not at all.

The study didn't show that these changes are harmful.
In fact, the researchers observed that the skin microbiota gradually returned to its original composition over time.

This is a good reminder that our microbiome is dynamic: it constantly responds to the environment around us.

🙃 In science, we sometimes measure changes so precisely that it's tempting to assume every change is either “good” or “bad.” But biology is rarely that simple, right?

Swimming in the sea isn't just about your skin microbiota. It's about movement, relaxation, spending time outdoors, reducing stress, making memories… and simply feeling happy. Those benefits are also part of health, even if they can't all be captured by sequencing bacterial DNA.

To summarize, for me, this study has a simple takeaway:

Not every measurable change is a negative one. Sometimes science helps us understand nature, rather than fear it.

Source:
📚 Nielsen MC, Jiang SC. Alterations of the human skin microbiome after ocean water exposure. Marine Pollution Bulletin (2019).

🌰 Horse chestnut has been used for centuries in traditional medicine and is increasingly finding its place in cosmetic formulations.

But one important question is often overlooked:

Does a traditional horse chestnut oil actually contain the ingredient responsible for many of its well-known cosmetic benefits?

In this post, we take a closer look at:

- what aescin is and why it is considered the main active compound in horse chestnut
- why traditional oil macerates are unlikely to contain significant amounts of aescin
- the cosmetic benefits associated with aescin
- key formulation considerations for cosmetic products

Understanding an ingredient goes beyond knowing its source, it also means understanding how it is extracted, formulated, and incorporated into a product.

Have you ever used or formulated with horse chestnut?

📖 For a deeper dive into the science, extraction methods, formulation, and cosmetic applications of aescin, explore the full article "Aescin: A Valuable Botanical Ingredient" in the latest CosmEthically ACTIVE Journal.

Link in our bio!

🌿 Shea butter (INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter) is one of the most widely used natural emollients in skincare and for good reason!

Rich in oleic and stearic acids, it helps improve skin hydration, supports the skin barrier, and leaves the skin feeling soft and nourished. Its naturally high oleic acid content also gives it a softer consistency than most vegetable butters, making it a versatile ingredient in cosmetic formulations.

But working with shea butter isn't always straight forward. Because it contains several triglycerides with different melting and crystallization behaviors, improper heating or cooling can lead to the formation of grainy crystals. This is why processing conditions are just as important as ingredient selection when developing stable, elegant formulations.

Have you ever formulated with shea butter—or is it one of your favorite skincare ingredients?

Let us know below! 👇✨

🌿 Arbutin has become one of the most widely used ingredients for addressing hyperpigmentation and promoting a more even skin tone.

But what makes it so effective?

In this post, we take a closer look at:
- why arbutin is popular in skincare
- how it helps reduce melanin production
- how it compares to hydroquinone
- key formulation considerations

Understanding an ingredient goes beyond knowing what it does—it also means understanding how it works, how it should be formulated, and where its limitations lie.

Have you ever formulated with arbutin or used it in your skincare routine?

📖 For a deeper dive into the science, formulation, and safety of arbutin, explore the full article Arbutin: A Valuable Botanical Ingredient in the latest CosmEthically ACTIVE Journal.

Link in our bio!

🌿 Quercetin and skin protection: what makes this flavonoid so interesting?

We recently came across an interesting review article discussing quercetin — one of the most abundant flavonoids found in nature and an increasingly interesting molecule in cosmetic research.

📖 The Role of Quercetin as a Plant-Derived Bioactive Agent in Preventive Medicine and Treatment in Skin Disorders by Michał Kazimierz Zaborowski, Anna Długosz, Błażej Błaszak, Joanna Szulc and Kamil Leis.

🔗 https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/29/13/3206

Quercetin is naturally found in many plants, including apples, onions, berries, broccoli, capers, and Sophora japonica. In cosmetic formulations, it is often incorporated through flavonoid-rich botanical extracts rather than as an isolated ingredient.

According to the review, quercetin has attracted attention because of its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective, and skin-soothing potential. Researchers have explored its possible applications in skin aging, photoaging, acne-prone skin, and sensitive or inflamed skin.

However, formulation is not without challenges. Quercetin has limited solubility and stability, which is why formulators often turn to more stable alternatives such as rutin or standardized quercetin-rich botanical extracts.

💡 An important consideration when working with botanical extracts is standardization, as flavonoid content can vary significantly depending on the source and extraction process.

Have you ever worked with quercetin, rutin, or quercetin-rich botanical extracts? We'd love to hear about your experiences in the comments.

✨ New Article in the CosmEthically ACTIVE Journal!

Arbutin is one of the most recognised cosmetic ingredients for managing hyperpigmentation and promoting a more even skin tone. Naturally derived from plants such as bearberry or produced biotechnologically as α-arbutin, it offers an interesting combination of efficacy and safety.

In our latest article, written by Ana Marolt, Arbutin: A Valuable Botanical Ingredient, we explore the science behind this well-established cosmetic active and its role in modern skincare.

This piece highlights the following:
- the chemistry and origin of arbutin
- differences between α-arbutin and β-arbutin
- its mechanism of action in reducing hyperpigmentation
- antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties
- comparisons with hydroquinone
- formulation considerations, stability, and safety aspects

Supported by scientific research, this review demonstrates why arbutin remains one of the most valuable ingredients for addressing uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation in cosmetic formulations.

📖 Link to the full article: https://cosmethicallyactive.com/arbutin-a-valuable-botanical-ingredient/

hyperpigmentation formulation

Some products simply earn a permanent place in our routines. 💚

From gentle cleansing and targeted treatments to nourishing hydration and body care, these are a few certified products we keep reaching for again and again.

What they have in common? Thoughtful formulation, enjoyable application, and a commitment to quality and transparency.

Swipe through to discover some of our favourites and let us know which product caught your eye. ✨