Dr. Mara Therese P. Evangelista-Huber
👩⚕️Dermatologist & Dermatopathologist
🔎 MS Clinical Trials
👩🏫 Skincare can be fun & scientific!
⬇️ Basic guides, deep dives & practical tips
Ang mga payo na ganito ay mahirap basta na lang susundin dahil: 1. Hindi naman alam ng mga matatandang iyan kung ano ang sakit mo para masabi nilang bawal ang malalansa 2. Sino ba ang mga matatandang nagsabi niyan? Maganda makausap natin sila para ipaliwanag bakit? (wink) 3. Ano ano ba ang mga pagkain na tinutukoy nila sa "malalansa"? Sa mga patients natin na mache-check up, kapag sinabihan ko po kayo na walang bawal na pagkain, ito po ang explanation 😊 For more details please message us in our Fb page
👩🏫 Even as a derm I have my fair share of bad skincare habits!
🧖♀️ I always forget BPO bleaches towels! Things that may help:
▪️Let BPO dry thoroughly
▪️Rinse BPO cleansers well before toweling off
▪️Wash hands after application
▪️Use white towels, pillowcases and sheets
▪️Use a towel over your pillow
▪️Wash “exposed” towels/sheets separately
▪️Apply BPO after wearing your clothes / wait a few minutes to get dressed/or get into bed
🧼 I often make a HUGE mess when washing my face! It’s not bad for my skin, but it can be bad for my relationship with my husband because he does NOT like a messy sink! Placing a towel on the area around the sink, bending closer into the sink, and taking my sweet time will hopefully improve this habit.
💄 I’m guilty of not washing my makeup brushes & sponges often enough (these can accumulate sebum, impurities, product, dead skin cells & microorganisms). There’s no one answer for when exactly to clean them, but it’s definitely a good idea to do so frequently! You may use a gentle soap or cleansers made specifically for cleaning brushes/sponges.
😁 I need to remember that the skin does not end on the face! This particularly holds true for sunscreen (don’t forget the ears, chest, neck and back of hands). Do note that the skin of the neck can be prone to irritation, so be careful when using actives in this area.
🙈 I need to stop pulling my white/grey hairs out! Plucking can traumatize the hair follicle, and repeated trauma to any follicle can cause infection, or even scars/bald patches.
🧴 I have to stop decanting skincare products into other containers (I just LOVE pumps)! Preservatives in skincare products wont work under non-sterile conditions. Even if a product goes into a sanitized bottle, this bottle wont be completely sterile because it wasn’t cleaned in a sterile environment; there could be contamination with microorganisms – from the air, hands, equipment, etc, - which may then lead to skin infections.
⬇️ Any tips you can share so I can break these habits?
👩🏫 Here are some things you need to know about skincare in pregnancy:
1️⃣ Sunscreen is safe in pregnancy. For those like me who already have melasma, sunscreens can be helpful during pregnancy because hormonal changes can make melasma worse.
As for the physical/inorganic vs chemical/organic debate for pregnancy - there isn’t conclusive evidence from clinical studies that chemical/organic filters are harmful. That said, pregnancy is one of the most challenging times of a woman’s life, so if you are more comfortable using a physical/inorganic sunscreen - go for it!
This sunscreen question is a good one to ask your derm/OB so you can make an informed decision together, and on an individualized basis. It’s important to make decisions you are comfortable with, and your own medical provider approves of.
2️⃣ You need to avoid retinoids: both prescription and non-prescription retinoids. The amount of retinoids absorbed by topical products is likely low, but birth defects have been linked to high doses found in oral products. To be safe, avoidance is advised.
3️⃣ Retinoids and hydroquinone are no-no’s in pregnancy, but there are other actives you can use safely. Some examples include benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, ascorbic acid, glycolic acid and niacinamide. Always best to ask your derm for advice!
4️⃣ Your skin type can change in pregnancy. My skin is now drier and more prone to dehydration. Some moms-to-be are the opposite - they become oilier than usual!
5️⃣ In studies, neither almond oil, cocoa butter, olive oil, nor vitamin E prevented or faded stretch marks (but these may help keep skin moisturized and less itchy).
Retinoids, hyaluronic acid, centella asiastica, & in-office procedures may make stretch marks less noticeable (particularly in the early stages), but wont really get rid of them.
Genetics plays a huge role in whether or not someone develops stretch marks - so one pregnant mama’s experience may differ from another.
Also - stretch marks are NORMAL. It is perfectly okay to leave them as they are (which is what I did)!
🤰🏼 When in doubt, consult a board-certified dermatologist!
📌 References in pinned comment
👩⚕️ May is skin cancer awareness month. Here are some skin cancer myths that need debunking:
❌ Myth 1: Skin cancer only affects lighter-skinned individuals.
🔘The risk is higher for lighter skin tones (skin that burns easily), with light-colored eyes, and blonde or red hair — but anyone can get skin cancer, regardless of skin color.
🔘When skin cancer does develop in darker skin tones, it is often found late and has a worse prognosis, likely because it occurs in less typical areas & is often in advanced stages when diagnosed.
❌ Myth 2: Only sun exposure causes skin cancer.
🔘The main cause of skin cancer is overexposure to the sun’s UV rays, but UV exposure from tanning beds, occupational equipment, high doses of UV light therapy, and frequent skin contact with certain industrial chemicals like coal tar & arsenic may also contribute.
❌ Myth 3: Skin cancer only affects the elderly.
🔘The risk of skin cancer increases with age, but children & young adults can also be affected.
🔘The earlier the exposure to the sun, the higher the risk for getting skin cancer later on (particularly if a blistering sunburn occurred at a young age).
🔘Melanoma is the most common form of cancer in young adults (25-29 yo), & the second most common form of cancer in people 15-29 yo.
🔘Cumulative UV exposure (over the course of a lifetime, including childhood & young adulthood) significantly impacts risk, so prevention counts at ANY age.
❌ Myth 4: Skin cancer appears only on sun-exposed areas of the body.
🔘Although skin cancer most commonly appears on sun-exposed areas, it can occur anywhere.
🔘People with darker skin tones are prone to skin cancer in non-sun-exposed areas i.e. palms, soles, groin, inside of the mouth, & beneath nails.
❌ Myth 5: I’m not at risk for skin cancer during winter.
🔘The sun’s UV rays are present year-round.
🔘Snow reflects up to 80% of the sun’s UV rays; you are often hit by the same rays twice!
👩🏫 What exactly is a moisturizer?
Moisturizers are products that are able to provide water and/or oils (lipids) to the skin.
Therefore, moisturizers can address dryness (lack of oil) and/or dehydration (lack of water), depending on the ingredients in the product.
There are 3 types of basic moisturizing ingredients:
✅ Occlusives slow down water loss from skin by acting as a barrier (e.g. petrolatum).
✅ Emollients smoothen skin by sinking between skin cells (e.g. plant oils & butters).
✅ Humectants increase skin hydration by attracting water to skin (e.g. glycerin, hyaluronic acid).
🧴Most moisturizers have a combination of these ingredients. In general, a thicker-textured moisturizer contains more occlusives and emollients, while lighter textures usually have more humectants.
📌A product doesn’t necessarily need to be labeled as a “moisturizer”, or be in lotion or cream form to function as a moisturizer. Any product with moisturizing ingredients e.g. eye cream, toner, serum, essence can do the job (depending on your skin needs, of course).
👌🏻Moisturizing products have different ingredients, formulations & textures. There is one for everyone who wants or needs one! What to look for:
☑️ Oily, dehydrated skin: light textures and water-loving humectants
☑️ Dry skin: thicker textures with combinations of moisturizing ingredients. Occlusives are helpful!
☑️ You don’t need to use a fragrance-free moisturizer unless you have allergies to
fragrance, or if you have conditions that predispose you to skin reactions e.g. atopic
dermatitis, or if you simply prefer this for own reasons. Fragrance may contribute to the sensorial experience and encourage users to apply moisturizers regularly.
☑️ Moisturizing products can have other beneficial ingredients like sunscreen ingredients and actives like retinol, antioxidants or hydroxy acids. This can help in product selection!
❓What is your favorite moisturizer? Let me know in the comments!
📌 References in pinned comment.
Thank you for reviewing this post! I’ve learned a lot about moisturizers from Michelle’s fantastic e-book, The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare.
01/11/2025
👩🏫 This post discusses scientific evidence on melasma from published literature, and incorporates some learnings from melasma experts in the recently concluded World Congress of Dermatology.
❓Hyperpigmentation vs melasma
Hyperpigmentation refers to conditions of excess pigmentation. It is a descriptive term, not a diagnosis. Melasma is a type of hyperpigmentation.
❓How is melasma diagnosed?
Melasma is often diagnosed by appearance and is generally an issue restricted to skin. In rare cases, melasma may be a symptom of a medical condition (e.g. thyroid dysfunction) or a side effect of medications (e.g anti-epileptic drugs). In challenging cases, further tests may be done to rule out other causes of hyperpigmentation.
❓How is melasma treated?
A complete history and a thorough physical examination will guide management. There are several treatment options available, targeting various aspects of the pathogenesis of melasma.
✅ Kindly keep in mind what works for someone's melasma wont necessarily work for you. Many factors determine response to treatment beyond the treatment itself – skin phototype, genetics, severity, lifestyle, environmental factors, among others.
⚠️ While in-office procedures have a role in melasma, these will not be discussed further in this post. The success of any procedure is highly dependent on the provider’s expertise & experience with melasma and the patient’s skin type. Side effects may occur and melasma worsened if procedures are not used judiciously.
👩⚕️ Please consider seeing a board-certified dermatologist, especially if your melasma isn’t going away or seems to be getting worse. We are here to help!
📌References in pinned comment.
Questions? Drop them in the comments section 💬
👩🏫 Here’s my take on this popular trend. I feel that there is as much pressure to have perfect skin as it is to have a perfect skincare routine (and to execute said routine perfectly). This 2024, let’s stop being hard on ourselves when it comes to our skin, skincare routines, and beyond.
❌ Some skin goals like perfect flawless, “glass” skin are unattainable, while some skin concerns (i.e. stretch marks, visible pores, underarm skin darker than the rest of the body and cellulite) are just normal skin variations.
✅ In contrast, healthy skin as a goal is not only achievable, it can be personalized based on the skin YOU are actually in. And why do realistic skin goals matter? Because insecurities due to perceived skin imperfections can decrease confidence and increase anxiety, impair relationships, and affect employment. Let’s stop defining and judging people by the color, texture, & tone of their skin.
➡️ And lastly — when life happens, please remember that skincare can wait. Even the best laid skincare plans can go awry. Time, effort, finances, access to skin specialists differ from person to person and can impact consistency and eventual results. Don’t be too hard on yourself if you need to take a skincare break. You can always bounce back and start again. Likewise, don’t judge other people if they are inconsistent in their skincare journey - we don’t know what other people are going through. Choose kindness, always, because skincare is not only skin deep.
Long story short, maybe not - the evidence certainly isn’t that strong. Claims that whatever food (e.g. sugar, milk) causes acne is just... unscientific. Yes, certain foods may be related to acne in certain* people (i.e. not everyone); sometimes there are other things going on that make people feel this way... For example, do you eat more chocolate closer to your period? Are you sure it’s not the hormonal changes causing your acne flare up rather than the chocolate? Based on the evidence, other factors are a lot more important, and this narrative that food causes acne leads to a lot of undue victim blaming and eating disorders. Of course, eating a general healthy diet is important - but that doesn’t mean certain foods are going to be your acne savior and others need to be completely avoided. Moderation is key; so is enjoyment and your relationship with food.
Podcast is back, kicking off season 10 with a deep dive on acne, featuring - one of my favorite derms on IG. What do we know and what don’t we know, what are effective treatment practices, and what are the common misconceptions? Link in bio to tune in!
PS, will be giving the skin concern 101 presentation at the Skincare E-Summit THIS SUNDAY! A free full day conference to give a cross section of the current state of skincare science. Have you registered yet? Link in bio for details and tickets!
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